Tip 1: Happy Cow, every vegan’s favorite pocket sidekick. BUT. Make note of the places and pin them to an offline map like Google Maps or Maps.Me because Happy Cow won’t help you with shit without WiFi. And most hours out of the day you will not have wifi especially not when you need it.

 

Warning 1: the most authentic way to make mojitos in the birthplace of the mojito is with honey and not a simple syrup from sugar as I’ve been led to believe. While there are plenty of mojitos made from sugar in Cuba, I learned after the fact there are also many that were using honey. 

 

Warning 2: Cuban cigars are dipped in honey before you smoke them (apparently the proper way to do it) and this is easily avoidable, but I learned there is also honey IN the cigars. Maybe this is common knowledge? Maybe this isn’t the way all cigars are made? I don’t know shit about cigars but I do know the tobacco farm I visited said there is honey in their cigars. Again, after the fact. 

 

Warning 3: do not say “ah, si, si” unless you are 100000% sure you know what was said because you may be really fucking surprised to find out you just accepted a ham sandwich. Yep. Not proud. Disappointed and disgusted actually. Story below.

 

Warning 4: Before I went, I was told all rice and beans are cooked with meat/meat stock and all bread contains milk. Except my spanish teacher who was born and raised in Cuba said this is not true, but every vegan traveler I know said this so I don’t know who has more accurate knowledge. I asked before ordering or eating and was told I was safe. I felt like the source was pretty trust worthy so I did just that, trusted. Nothing tasted or felt off to me but use your own judgement.

 

Now for my personal vegan dining experience in the little country of Cuba. Apologies in advance for the photo quality. They weren’t good to begin with and any investment in editing would be futile.

 

Havana – This is why I say researching ahead of time might really help you out. I had a bunch of places bookmarked on my map so I knew where to head once I arrived tired and hungry. My first meal was cheap, satisfying and all vegan. Afterwards, I was walking around near the capital when my vegan shirt invited a skater from Italy over to talk. Turns out, he is vegetarian and one of the first things he said to me was “were you able to find any food? I’ve been living off of bread and cheese.” So yeah, that leads me to my first recommendation:

El Shamuskia’o – After stopping by two other places I had bookmarked when I first arrived and only seeing one very basic option on the menu, I knew I could do better. But Maps.me (more likely me) was leading me astray and I was losing hope, about to give up when before my disbelieving eyes, I was walking right past the place with a huge VEGAN FOOD sign hanging above the door. This place is quaint, cute, large portions, cheap prices, and a full vegan menu. If you’re used to Portland, OR vegan food, you won’t be impressed. But to have at least 10 solid options identified as vegan was pretty incredible. I ate here 3 times out of my 4 days in Havana and that’s only because I was trying to force myself to give some other places a chance. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Somos Cuba – This place is an experience. I would say the food is nothing special but you should still go. I think there is one option, the “Vegan Plate”: some rice, sauteed fruit, typical basic salad that I didn’t eat but the meal was filling, it came with coffee, I loved my time there, I had great pineapple juice, and I made a new friend there and we ended up having a great tipsy girl in Old Havana night which was a lot of fun. This was on a Tuesday, my formerly mentioned Italian vegetarian fiend and I attempted to go there on a Sunday and it was closed and I heard someone else tried on Monday and it was closed. But if you bang on the door enough because you’re not sure if they are closed or if you just don’t understand the process, the next door neighbor will probably invite you in so she can point to another place down the street that might have veg food. It’s unique in that not only is the location one you’re wondering if there really can be a place of food business there but also, you’re essentially sitting in a kitchen and they cook the food in front of you. Don’t go when you’re rushed, it’s not a quick process.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Buena Vista Curry Club – I think I read this place could veganize many things but when I asked for my vegan options, I was told only 2 different dishes. At this point, I would have taken anything but the food, an eggplant dish that didn’t come with rice which I ordered a side of, was really yummy and the service was really good. I’m only on the fence about recommending it because it’s a tourist place with tourist prices. Very nice, I was the only one in there at an odd time of day and I think they have music at night (who doesn’t in Havana) so I’ve no real complaints.

 

 

El Dandy – another place I had bookmarked but stopped by once and I think I read they only had veggie tacos or something so I skipped it. I ended up here for my very last meal on the trip because my casa particular lady was sick and couldn’t provide the breakfast I ordered. They had fruit and coffee so not worth recommending but I struck up a conversation with another Italian because it looked like he was eating bruchetta that was probably vegan if you wanted to dig around the menu some more. 

 

 

Paladar La Cubana – This is where I ended up after my first attempt at Somos Cuba didn’t work out because it was just down the street. Another overpriced tourist place, but I was able to get black beans, rice, and fried plantains in a pinch and enjoyed it thoroughly. I think they said they could also make a vegetable paella but surprisingly I had yet to have black beans on this trip and that’s what was calling my name.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coco Glace –  a little vegan coconut ice cream cart in Plaza Veija in Old Havana. One of my few desserts! Several flavors to choose from and it’s served in a half coconut shell. It was surprisingly creamy and really good. I had an unexpected experience though. After saying I was from the US the person serving me was saying how much he hopes to move to the US someday. I jokingly, maybe stupidly, made a comment like I’m sure he will wait until Trump leaves only because EVERYONE I spoke to in Cuba all said they hated Trump, so I thought I was just being one step ahead of him. Dude flipped out and got VERY upset that I do not like Trump and would even dare imply anything unsavory about him. Homeboy was getting all fired up and I’m just laughing like “okay fanboy, Trump doesn’t even want you in the US but whatever, can I just have my ice cream now?” So stick to the ice cream script and you should be golden unless you just want to ruin his day a little bit for fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

California Cafe – This is on the other side of Havana in Vedado. Almost all tourist stuff and aforementioned restaurants above have been in Old Havana. Then there is Centro, then there is Vedado which is where I stayed and the location of this cute little place. I ended up here because I had already tried a couple places before this and at this point, I was about ready to die because of my own poor route planning so I was even less picky. Even so, I really liked this place! I loved the vibe, the server was awesome, I think it’s LGBTQ+ owned? There were a couple things to choose from and I really liked what I had! It really was exactly what I needed at the time. I’d say it would even be worth a taxi ride and hit one of the night clubs while you’re over there. (Try EFE, the one place that sounded chill I didn’t get to, or FAC Cuban Art Factory, you’ll definitely want to go there.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Mediterraneo Habana – This was one of my attempts before ending up at California Cafe. I read about the vegan risotto or something but when I walked in, I immediately wanted to leave. I was SO hungry and my feet hurt SO bad I was going to suck it up but fortunately/unfortunately I didn’t have reservations and they were full. Which already tells me a lot. It just wasn’t my scene. I opened the door and it felt too cramped, too fancy and all I saw were white people 65+, I think some were even wearing blazers. Yes, “blazers”. I’m sure the food is wonderful and the staff lovely. I just no longer felt like I was in Cuba and I was pretty sure I was going to be paying inflated tourist prices. I felt very out of place there just from being a solo diner. 

 

Bohemia Cafe – had it bookmarked and I saw it’s location in Plaza Vieja but again, looked like another generic tourist place. I don’t want to sound like an enlightened asshole, my biggest gripe with them is paying triple for something mediocre. Sometimes tourist places are like the Applebee’s of the US. That’s all. If that’s your thing or you’re out that way, you might be all about it. 

 

El Cafe – I planned on going here but then changed my mind while in Cuba and now I don’t remember why. Looking over the Happy Cow info, I kinda wish I checked it out but maybe the location as just never aligned with my route? Although the best sounding thing on their menu is a hummus sandwich and I don’t know if this would have topped my sandwich at El Shamuskia’o. I dunno. Give it a shot.

 

O’Reilly’s 304 – I had this bookmarked, looked at the menu, meh. Kept on walking.

 

La Rosa Negra – I wanted to go here but our paths just never crossed. I could have made it happen but I figured best case scenario the food still wouldn’t have been worth paying for a taxi or passing up on other plans.

 

Something else worth noting: churros are naturally vegan. Yep. fried sugary dough, mmm. I happened upon a cart my very first night so I thought this was going to be a daily treat assuming this was not an anomaly. But I didn’t make note of where it was and I went searching another night with no luck. I eventually came upon another one where it looked like I was the first customer all week, they didn’t make them in the cute spiral, nothing seemed that fresh and they give out one big one and it made me feel uncomfortable. But fried + sugar = me happily eating it. So if you find a good churro cart, remember where the fuck it was because you may not find it again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breakfast in Havana – order breakfast from your casa particular every.morning.you.can. It is the cheapest you’ll find and you’ll be supporting your lovely hosts. You’ll get a shit ton of fruit, coffee, bread, juice… I can’t imagine there is a better dining option out there for breakfast. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It doesn’t sound like I ate at many places but for some reason it was enough. A few meals at my first recommendation and I had a full beach day which consisted of mojitos and some protein bars I took along. I tried to get fries at the little restaurant there but they were out of potatoes. Not a shock in Cuba. BTW, this was Santa Maria beach, the closest to Havana, a cheap bus ride on a comfy bus, it wasn’t crowded and I thought just lovely with no need to travel further. People will recommend Veradado but it’s resort-ville. Supposedly beautiful but I didn’t want to drive 2 hours to go to resort beaches.

 

Vinales – From Havana, I took the 2 1/2 hour colectivo ride to the small town of Vinales. Recommend! It’s tranquil, a little “city” of about 4 blocks, wonderful people and a beautiful landscape. I stayed 2 nights and wish I stayed more here and less in Havana. Everyone is more patient in Vinales as seen in their willingness, maybe out of necessity, to have conversations with me in my slow, broken, incorrect Spanish, unlike Havana. I think EVERY restaurant was promoting vegetarian food on their menu. No it wasn’t the best selection and I think half the time it was really vegan food, I wasn’t going to Cuba for a food tour so I was satisfied. It was cool to see they knew there was demand for it.

 

La Berenjena – this was my first destination and did not disappoint. It was really close to my casa and town center. I think this is referred to as a vegetarian restaurant but I am pretty sure they had meat on the menu. But they actually had SEITAN on the menu too. I was shocked! But I was not shocked when they said Cuba is out of seitan. Not they were out of seitan but Cuba. So I picked something else of a name I can’t remember. It came with tempura vegetables but I was informed they had egg in the batter so they gave me rice. Another vegan recommended the tempura vegetables which just shows mistakes happen, sometimes it depends on your server but we try our best. My server was pretty darn knowledgeable. My dish was an eggplant stack I think it was called which came with rice and salad I believe. And some (vegan) complimentary bread and dip while you waited. It was all so good! Full of flavor! I also ordered a side of black bean soupy thing but it was waaaay too much food and I don’t recommend that because you’ll be embarrassed for looking like an American glutton.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finca Agroecologica – I really, really, really wish I got here. That was my plan but it was not in walking distance of my casa like I thought and I was all taxi’d out. Read about it, and make a point to go. I’ll be back in Vinales in March so I won’t miss it this time.

 

I had another full beach day at Cayo Jutias so it was more mojitos and and snacks I brought. So my other two meals were me just walking around and randomly picking a place. Both satisfying meals but I can’t say the name of the places and with 2 blocks of restaurants, you’ll find them or something equally good. I had a kinda weird cheese-less pizza at one place (Cuba is not known for their pizza skills but I liked it, or was starving) and a vegetable paella which had a lot of flavor. 

 

Unexpectedly I had some really delicious home-prepared yucca. I was taking a tour of Vinales Valley and my guide randomly stopped by a house on the way back (random house stops are a thing in Cuba). I was offered some yucca which I initially declined because I was starting to feel like I fucked up too much and was worried. They kept pushing and I inquired about the ingredients and cooking process and I was assured it was just boiled or steamed yucca. They then asked if I wanted a drizzle of oil on it. It was basic but holy shit SO GOOD. I think I’ve had yucca before but this was just the best thing ever at that moment. If you get the chance, don’t decline. 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breakfasts were, yep, at my casa with more bread, fruit, coffee, and juice. Also my one and only avocado. My sweet hosts only charged me half for my meals because they were so “little”. $2.50 for all this food. 

Not food related but for Vinales night life – House of Music / Casa de la Musica. I ended up meeting another solo traveler and we went together. They say there is a $1 cover but I guess I got there before they were charging or maybe because it was a Wednesday. It had a weird, wildly WTF entertaining variety show earlier in the night but then turned into salsa/latino pop music. I think it’s the place to be (one of the only at that hour!) because every local recommended it. It doesn’t have a name on the building, that I saw, but it’s directly across from the town center where the church is. A big space, you probably won’t miss it.

  

Nut Pods creamer – because I need coffee but I can’t handle it without creamer preferably, milk second. You will not find plant milk there. I didn’t look hard but not one menu had it despite having some coconuts around. It’s shelf stable and you’ll probably have a little fridge to keep it in once open. But I left it at my first casa and so I got used to drinking the coffee with sugar, I was just trying to limit my refined sugars. 

 

Protein bars – duh. I really only needed them for beach days. Lemon Luna and a chocolate mint from a brand I can never remember (both Target)

 

Peanut Butter crackers (accidentally vegan Ritz I think?) – I think I only had them on the plane ride or after a drunk night

 

Accidentally vegan Twizzlers – unnecessary but I enjoyed the shit out of them

 

Little to-go black olives cups – weird choice but I knew I’d want something salty since nuts, protein bars, all that starts to feel a little similar and sweet.

 

Almonds – both chocolate covered and reg

 

I also brought vegan jerky, some seaweed stick thing (not a fan) that I didn’t eat but other than that, I really didn’t need much. If you’re concerned about bread, maybe bring some and maybe some jam for it to have with breakfasts. My host made me a marmalade, just pureed fruit and sugar probs. Or bring some PB or instant oatmeal (if you trust hot water but you’d probably need to ask your hosts to boil some for you), if you’re worried about needing something more. I didn’t find I was missing anything.

 

Cuban food that is typically vegan (but always triple check!) – just for some extra info although I can’t remember my original source
arroz congri;
arroz con vegetales;
arroz de lentejas;
botaja de frijoles;
botaja de chicharos;
botaja de garbanzos;
fufu;
chicharitas;
tachinos
tostones (fried green plantains)
maduros (fried sweet plantains)
yuca en mojo”, which is just yucca (manioc, cassava) with a bit or garlic, salt and lemon,

Now my ham sandwich story.

I was the chosen tourist riding in front of the truck cab with the two spanish-only speaking drivers to Cayo Jutias. We had great conversations in my shitty spanish about cars, I was introduced to family because they randomly stop by their houses along the way. At one point I was told something I didn’t understand, as they parked the car in front of a stand. I said “what?” probably 10 times when I realized he was telling me the name of the town. “Ah, si, si” I replied but apparently he wasn’t telling me the name of the town, he was asking me if I wanted a ham sandwich. So one of the drivers came running back with 3 ham sandwiches in his hand (no napkins, nothing and I’m sure it was prepared on a random discarded wooden slab with no sanitation in site but when in Rome).

They were so generous to buy me something when nobody is living large there. I was horrified by my mistake but felt like the biggest asshole for saying I wanted something that they bought with their own money and was about to turn it down. I was kinda stunned and not sure how to handle it honestly. I could only think to play it off by saying I was full at the moment and I’d take it later. I dunno, I caved under pressure and I’m always down for a vegan ed moment but this wasn’t it. They then offered me a big tostada looking yucca chip which I ate that as my distraction. They also offered me some water from a shared bottle that had like two swigs in it. Very thoughtful but no thank you. 

All in all, I think you’ll be fine if you come with some ideas in mind. If you plan on just winging it and hoping to happen upon something in Havana, it might be a little trickier. Enjoy Cuba for what it is and make food secondary. You won’t starve.